La Cremaillere on track

La Cremaillere is a bar and eatery in a wonderful building at the Monte Carlo terminus of the old mountain railway line to La Turbie.

Inside, little touches of art nouveau metalwork give the impression that you're sitting in a conservatory, and you half expect a couple of bustled ladies to take a seat and order tea and cakes. But they'd be out of place in this modern pavilion, with its wall of glass overlooking the little square that separates Beausoleil from Monte Carlo. While we were there, we did see ladies, some drinking wine, some drinking coffee. There were also families and blokes, a real mix of people.

We ordered two draft beers, and our friendly host served up the tasty Kronenbourg 1664 in rather fancy glasses. Not only that, but he also offered us a generous basket of bread and some nibbles. We enjoyed ourselves so much that we went back to try the wine a couple of days later, and once again spent a relaxing hour or so chatting about nothing in particular.

Although we're not normally very gregarious, Mr MaBoum struck up a conversation with our host, who explained that the name of the restaurant, Cremaillere, refers to the rack and pinion system used by the old railway. Unfortunately, the line fell into disuse after a runaway train smashed through the station 1932, killing its engineer and severely wounding its driver. The only reminder of the building's past are the photographs of old railway engines, cogs and wheels behind the bar.

La Cremaillere is open Monday to Saturday, from 7am to some time in the evening.